Region: Chubu
Takayama population: 68.000
Matsumoto population: 200.000
Chubu stretches from Tokyo to Kyoto and features rugged seascapes, spectacular mountains, and some densly populated areas. In other words a region of contrasts, as well as beauty.
Chubu-Sangaku National Park is also, understandably, called the Japanese Alps.
We had several options when the time had come to leave Kyoto. Originally, we thought of going to Kanazawa, which in retrospect
probably would be better than Takayama. However, that is what we did. Lonely planet writes, "It should be a high priority on any visit to central Honshu", and,
"Takayama is a rarity". Well, that sounded fine, we thought, and went there. The trainride from Kyoto seemed promising, taking us through nice valleys with
rivers and forests on every side. But after getting off at the station, we soon realised Takayama was a tidy little town, with tourists everywhere.
And the charm
Lonely Planet writes about, is a good description for "Sanmachi", the old town. But it was almost impossible to get a feeling of charm due to the streets being crowded, and the
shops in every single of these small houses were packed with people.
We visited Kyodokan, a museum of local history, which was interesting enough, and went for a walk in
a park, looking for ruins of old Takayama castle. Unfortunately, nothing much to see really. At night we ate some great local beef, prepared on our table, and later found
our way to a couple of nice bars. The coolest one being Junkyard, with a Michelin-theme.
After the two days here, we got on a short bus trip to Shin Hotaka Onsen, described in the next chapter.
After just one night here, we headed for a quick stop over
in Matsumoto, where we saw the nice castle Matsumoto-jo. We also walked around a it in "Nakamachi", a former merchant district. As we only had one night here as well, we
prepared for Tokyo and relaxed, eating well and playing pool.
This was one of our highlights! Arriving here in this relatively remote area, we knew there wasn't much else to do but hiking and enjoying the wonderful
nature this area can provide. And this is why we came. As soon as we had dropped off our gear at our nice ryokan, we changed for lighter clothes and packed our backpacks with
camera equipment, water and prepared for a long walk. As we didn't have a lot of time in this place, we started walking towards the ropeway which would take us to
2200 meters above sealevel. On the way to the Shin Hotaka Ropeway, we found ourselves walking along the road with noone else around, and no cars! Very peaceful!
We enjoyed this, and took several pictures. The ropeway was of course the main attraction for the tourists who came here on a short daytrip. In contrast to them who went up
and then straight down, Robin and I went for a walk, aiming for 2500 meters, through the clouds. This was a nice and peaceful experience, and we realy wanted to continue
to the other side, but at the top (well, actually it was more further up, but no time) we had to get down because we ran out of time before darkness. So we went down, and soon after
found our way to the hot spring where we lived. We brought a couple of beers and spent two hours there, relaxing in the warm water and letting the sore muscles unwind.
Shin Hotaka - or this National park - is a place I could spend a week at, I believe. The peace, the scenery, the hot springs, and seemingly endless opportunities of hiking.
Needless to say, neither Takayama or Matsumoto impressed us too much. Therefore, I might choose a different route here if I was
to go again. I would probably try out Kanazawa before heading for Chubu-Sangaku National Park (in which you will find Shin Hotaka). As I have described my emotions on
Shin Hotaka, maybe further information is unnecessary.
There is one thing, however: If you have the time, and like enjoy fresh air in the great outdoors, it is worthwhile
spending more time here than we did, and also seeing different onsen and areas. Chubu Sangako is also called the Japan Alps and provides some of Japan's most spectacular
mountain scenery. It is good for hiking, and I think mountain climbers would find several hotspots here! And, of course, you don't go to this area without sinking into an "onsen"; a
hot spring. There are lots of these, not only here but in Japan in general. Not only does it feel excellent, but it is supposed to be good for you.
This area is a must if you head into Chubu Sangaku National Park, at least I would recommend it! I wish I could have stayed longer.
If you are going to Takayama we can definetively recommend Oh-Machi Inn, a Minchuku run by a nice lady and her dentist son. She is a very charming woman,
trying her best to speak English, and when that inevitably fails, she gets her son for translation. Oh-Machi is cheap, clean, quite, with big rooms and is in the old part of town.
I knew the National Park would be great, but I didn't know it would be such beautiful scenery.
I could definetively go here again!
Takayama was supposed to be a grat place, not to be missed, but I have to say that for us it did nothing I'm afraid. We had a great time at night, but was about it. There is so much more in this region I think, and I would look in that direction...